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Parish Details

Chipping Barnet Parish church of St John the Baptist (1560)
In Saxon Times the site was part of an extensive wood called Southaw, belonging to the Abbey of St Albans. The name of the town appears in early deeds as Bergnet, the Saxon word Bergnet signifies a little hill, monticulus. Its elevated position is also indicated in its alternate name of High Barnet, which it bears in many old books and maps, and which the railway company restored. It is the belief of the older natives the "Barnet stands on the highest ground betwixt London and York." The town consists of a straggling street over a mile long, chiefly of small commonplace houses, with two or three shorter streets diverging from it. From its situation on the main road, as the centre of an agricultural district, the seat of a county court and petty sessions, and having a barracks close at hand., Barnet is a busy-looking place, and has some good shops; one or two excellent inns, Red Lion and Old Salisbury Arms, and an undue proportion of public-houses; but on the whole it is a shabby and not a very picturesque appearance: it is, however, improving. In coaching days, 150 stage coaches passed through it daily. Since the opening of the railway, the town has increased considerably, especially on the west about the Common; or as it is now called, Arkley.
Barnet Church, St John the Baptist, which stands in what was the centre of the town, was erected by John de la Moote, abbot of St Albans, about 1400, the architect being Beauchamp. It consists of a nave and aisles separated by clustered colons which support four pointed arches; a chancel with an east window of good Perpendicular tracery; a vestry, built in the reign of James I by Thomas Ravenscroft; and at the west end, a low, square embattled tower. The living of Barnet is a curacy, held with the rectory of East Barnet till the death of the late incumbent in 1866, when the livings were separated. The town also includes parts of the parishes of Monken Hadley and South Mimms.

Clerkenwell Parish church of St James, Clerkenwell Green (1551-1945)   See also Finsbury
The origin of the name is simple, Clerks' Well. The well was located where 18 Farringdon Road now stands. It was rediscovered during excavations on an adjoining site. The well was found nearly 3 feet below a wood and stone floor which was covered by brick rubbish, earth and pieces of chalk. John Strype wrote in 1720; 'I was there and tasted the water and found it extremely clear sweet and well-tasted. The Parish is much displeased that it is thus gone to decay and think to make some Complaint at a Commission for Charitable Uses, hoping by that means to recover it to common use again, the Water being highly esteemed thereabouts; and many from these Parts send for it.' In 1800 a pump was installed allowing the water to be made available for the inhabitants of Clerkenwell. A tablet was discovered during demolition bearing the following inscription:
A.D. 1800. William Bound, Joseph Bird, Church Wardens: For the better accommodation of the neighbourhood this pump was removed to this spot where it now stands. The spring by which it was supplied is situated 4 feet eastward and round it as history informs us, the parish clerks of London in remote ages annually performed sacred plays. That custom caused it to be denominated Clerks' well and from whish this parish derives its name. The water was greatly esteemed by the Prior and Brethren of the Order of St John of Jerusalem and the Benedictine nuns of the neighbourhood. The well was finally closed in 1857, having become polluted.

The Proiry of St John of Jerusalem was founded by Jordan Briset in 1140. The priory land covered 10 acres, being bounded by Clerkenwell Green to the north, St John's Lane in the south, St John's Street in the east and Red Lion lane to the west.Guests of the priory include King John in 1212, Queen Eleanor of Castile in 1265 and King Henry IV spent two weeks just before his coronation. In 1381 the church was burnt and badly damaged by the rebels led by Wat Tyler. It was not until 1723 that the church was reconstructed as the parish church of St John's, Clerkenwell
Henry VIII during dissolution took over all lands belonging to the Order of St John Jerusalem. Those knights that did not flee, mainly to Malta, were executed. On her accession Queen Mary invited the knights to return. The nave and tower of the church had been destroyed and the choir had no roof. In 1557 the Order was revived with all its ancient privileges only to be dissolved again by Elizabeth and the property of the knights to be seized.
Other churches:
(Holdings at London
Metropolitan Archives)
St John, Pentonville Road (1723-1930)
St Mark, Myddelton Square (1828-1931)
St Peter, St John Street (1871-1880*)
St Silas, Penton Street (1865-1880*)
* adult baptisms.

East Barnet Parish church of St Mary (1553)
East Barnet is a pleasant village 10 miles north from London and 2 miles south-east of Barnet. It is called East Barnet to distinguish it from Chipping Barnet and Friern Barnet immediately adjoining. Since the Conquest, East Barnet has been part of the manor of Chipping Barnet. The church, St Mary the Virgin, consists of a nave, built by an Abbot of St albans early in the 12th century; a chancel built in 1663 by Sir Robert Bartlet, and a modern brick tower at the west end; to which was added in 1868 a south aisle of Kentish rag with Bathstone dressings, and at the same time the interior was restored and refitted.
The scenery around East Barnet is pleasing, but the place has lost somewhat of its rural quite since the opening of the railway. Between the village of East Barnet and the station many small houses have been built. By the church is Church Farm, "The Country House," Industrial Schools for about 100 destitute boys, between the ages of 6 and 13, not convicted of crime. The farm of 50 acres is cultivated by the boys. Oak Hill Park, east of the village, is a fine mansion standing on an eminence and commanding extensive views. Belmont on the north of it, was formally called Mount Pleasant, and was the residence of Elias Ashmole, founder of the Ashmolian Museum.

Edgware Parish church of St Margaret , Station Road (1717-1867) (Holdings at London Metropolitan Archives)
Edgeware, previously known as Eggesware, is a small town on the road to St Albans, and on the ancient Watling Street, extending from Kingsbury on the south to Elstree on the north and bounded on the east and west by Hendon and Little Stanmore; 8 miles from Hyde Park Corner, and terminus of the Highgate and Edgware branch of the Great Northern Railway. Inns Chandos Arms and the Boot.
The town stretches for more than a mile along the highroad, which widens considerably opposite the church. It consists of a very irregular mixture of houses - shops, mostly small, cottages, and private dwellings - the best in the north end; with two or three inns, now curtailed in extent and style, but evidently some consequence in the old coaching days.
Towards the end of the 12th century the manor of Edgware belonged to Ela, Countess of Salisbury, the wife of William Longspée. In the 14th century it passed by marriage to the Le Stranges; was alienated in 1427, and in 1443 was sold to the newly founded college of All Souls, Oxford, whose property it still is. The church, St John of Jerusalem, is curiously uninteresting. The tower of flint and stone, square, with an octagonal angle turret, and modern battlements, is old but poor; the body of the church, which was rebuilt in 1765, and renewed in 1845, is of brick whitened over; cruciform, the windows modern Perpendicular, the east window of three lights being filled with painted glass. Neither interior or exterior will detain the visitor; both are alike uninteresting.

Edmonton Parish church of All Saints, Church Street (1558-1837) (Holdings at Society
of Genealogists)

Edmonton, earlier recorded as Adelmeton and later as Edelmeton is village which straggles for nearly two miles along the road to Ware from Tottenham and Enfield, the Tottenham part being called Upper Edmonton, the Enfield end Lower Edmonton; Stations on the Great Eastern Railway, Angel Road and Church Street, on the Hertford or Low Level, and at Silver Street and Church Street on the High Level branches, serve both districts. The village is built along a slightly raised crest, having the River Lea on one side and the New River on the other: the higher ground on the west arable, the lower, by the Lea, marsh land. Of old, Edmonton was noted for its market gardens, and they are still extensive, potatoes being very largely grown. There are also nurseries and farms, as well as several factories; but with the development of the railway facilities Edmonton is assuming more and more the aspect of a suburban village. The history of the place is little more than the history of the several mAnors, to relate which would be tedious and unprofitable. The inhabitants of Edmonton had right of common upon Enfield Chase, and when the Chase was divided, in 1777, a tract of 1231 acres was allotted to the parish.
The church, All Saints, is situated in Church Street, Lower Edmonton, a turning on the left of the London road by the 7 mile stone, and the High and Low Level railway stations leading to Winchmore Hill. It is a large building, chiefly of the Perpendicular period, but was cased with brick and altered throughout, with the exception of the tower, in 1772. In 1886, however, the interior was carefully restored, new perpendicular windows inserted in the chancel, and a south aisle added to it. The tower is of flint and stone; Perpendicular square with an angle turret at the south-east and battlemented, and has a peal of eight bells.
Other churches: Christ Church, Southgate
Holy Trinity, Winchmore Hill
St Alphege, Hertford Road
St James, Fore Street
St Martin, Town Road
St Mary the Virgin Mission Church, Tottenham Road
St Michael, Brunswick Park
At Michael at Bowes,Whittington Road
St Paul, New Southgate
St Peter, Bounces Road
St Peter's Mission Church, Bounds Green
Weld Chapel, Southgate

Enfield Parish church of St Andrew, Market Place (1550 - 1875)
Enfield, Dom. Enefelde (probably from the Anglo Saxon én and feld, a forest clearing) is about 9 miles from London by road. The Great Eastern Railway has a branch line to Enfield, and the Great North Railway has also a short line. Enfield parish is very large, containing 12,653 acres, and being eight and a half miles long from east to west and three to six miles from north to south. The river Lea is its eastern boundary, East Barnet and Hadley its western, Edmonton the southern and Cheshunt, South Mimms, and Northaw the northern. Enfield parish is divided into four quarters: Town quarter, comprising the central portion of the parish and the eastern side of Chase Side; Chase quarter, the whole of the Enfield Chase, Windmill Hill, and the western side of Chase Side; Bull's Cross quarter, Enfield Wash, Forty Hill and the north-eastern section of the parish; and Green Street quarter, Green Street, Ponders, and Enfield Highway. Enfield gave the title of Baron to the Earls of Rochford. Enfield has eight manors, two of which, Enfield and Worcester, were formally royal manors, each having its palace and park, and with these the historical interest in Enfield is chiefly associated. In the time of the Confessor the manor of Enfield was owned by Osgar, master of the horse to King Edward. At the Doomsday Survey it belonged to Geoffrey de Mandeville, a powerful Norman baron who accompanied William to the Conquest. The account of Enfield in the Doomsday Book supports the derivation of the name, and gives an unusually bright picture of an English village in the early years of the Conquest. Evidently it was a large village within a cleared portion of the forest.. Edward I, in 1303, granted by charter a license to Humphrey de Bohun and his heirs to hold a market at Enfield weekly on Mondays. James I renewed the grant, altering the day to Saturday.
The church, St Andrew, stands as has been said on the northern side of the market place, and within a spacious but over-crowded church yard. It is of flint and stone, but covered externally with cement, perpendicular in style, and consists of nave, with clerestorey, chancel, and aisles, west tower, with a peal of eight bells, and southern porch. The long side of the church lying parallel to the market place, plaster-covered, and having continuous lines of ugly (and comparatively modern) battlements alike on tower, nave, aisles and chancel, can hardly be called picturesque, and certainly not impressive.
Other churches: Jesus Church, Forty Hill
St George's Mission Church
St James, Enfield Highway
St Matthew, Ponders End

Finchley Parish church of St Mary, Hendon Lane, Church End (1558 - 1958)
Finchley, anc. Fyncheslee, is a pleasant village, eight miles north of London, lying between the Barnet Road and Hendon. The parish, which is very large, extending northwards about three miles from the east end of Whetstone, the greater part of which is in Finchley parish. Finchley is not mentioned in the Doomsday Survey; but from time immemorial the manor has belonged to the see of London; and King John in the first year of his reign granted to the bishop and his Finchley tenants freedom from toll, a grant that was confirmed by Charles II. A manor, called Finchley Manor, was held by the Marches and Leyndons in the 15th century and by the Comptons in the 16th. The village, called Church End, is long, rambling, still rural, and not unpicturesque, the country lanes and road changing imperceptibly into the village street; everywhere trees mingling with the houses, and the village culminating in a striking group of buildings, - the church the centre, the old part of Finchley College on one side, the new building with its tall tower - both noteworthy red-brick structures on the other. But the builder is steadily gain ground here as elsewhere. Streets, terraces, villas, and cottages are rising all around, and the outlying hamlets threaten soon to become good-sized villages. There is a little inn with a quaint garden, The King of Prussia, at Church End; but the larger house, a great favourite with holiday makers, the King's Head, is gone. Along the Barnet Road the inns are of course numerous.
Finchley church, St Mary, is of stone, perpendicular in style, and was thoroughly restored in 1872, when the plaster which previously covered it was removed, a new southern aisle added, the interior renewed and reseated, and the general appearance of the church both inside and outside much improved. It now consists of a nave with aisles, chancel, and at the western end a low battlemented tower with at the south-east angle, a good stair-turet, carried only to the second storey, and terminating in a conical stone roof; this, however, is recent work: before the restoration of the church, the turret had a very rude termination.
Other churches:
(Holdings at London
Metropolitan Archives)
All Saints, Durham Road, East Finchley N2 [1893]
Christ Church, High Road N12 [1872]
Holy Trinity, East Finchley [1845]
St John the Apostle, High Road, Whetstone N20 [1833]
St Luke, Mountfield Road, N3 [1905]
St Paul, Long Lane N3 [1886]

Finsbury
Acording to one etymology the original name for the area was Fensbury, although another source, Saxons in England by J M Kemble, suggests it is derived from a family called 'Finnes,' 'Fynes,' or 'Fiennes.' There is a Prebend of Finsbury in St Paul's Cathedral, whose property included Bunhill Fields. Finsbury is bounded Islington and Shoreditch to the north, by Shoreditch to the east, the City of London to the south and to the west by Holborn and St Pancras.
St Luke's church in Old Street was built in 1732 by George Dancer and it was known as 'Lousy St Luke's' due to the dragon design of the weather vane. Nearby, in City Road, is John Wesley's Chapel which was opened in 1778. The Roman Catholic church of St Joseph's can be found in Bunhill Row.
Churches in Finsbury: All Saints Mission Chapel
Holy Redeemer, Exmouth Market
St Barnabas, King Square
St Catherine's Mission
St Clement, City Road
St John The Baptist, St John's Square
St Mary, Charterhouse
St Matthew, City Road
St Paul, Bunhill Row
St Philip, Granville Square
St Thomas, Charterhouse
Smithfield Martyrs' Memorial Church

Friern Barnet Parish church of St James (1674)
Friern Barnet lies south of East Barnet, eight miles from London. The parish includes the hamlet of Colney Hatch and the east side of Whetstone, and the population, exclusive of the 2117 inmates of the County Lunatic Asylum, Colney Hatch, was 2230 in 1871. Friern Barnet itself is a quiet, retired, and very pretty place, hardly to be called a village, the houses lying dispersed between the Barnet road and Colney Hatch. Many are the residences of wealthy citizens, stand in spacious grounds, and are embowered among old elms and limes, and altogether he aspect of the place is verdurous and flourishing. But here as elsewhere the builder is making inroads. The manor of Friern Barnet belonged to the Knights of St John of Jerusalem; on the suspension of monastery it was assigned to the Dean and Chapter of St Paul's, and now belongs to J Miles Esq. The Manor House close by the church retains few vestiges of antiquity. When Norden wrote his 'Survey of Middlesex' in 1592, Lord Chief Justice Popham resided there. In the olden times the Great North Road passed through Friern Barnet by way of Colney Hatch, but becoming inconvenient "by reason of the deepness and dirty passage in winter season," the Bishop of London undertook to make a new and more direct road to Whetstone through his park at Highgate; and to compensate the inhabitants of Friern Barnet for the loss of the traffic on their road, they were made free of toll levied at the Bishop's Gate.
The church, St James, has a Norman doorway; nave with windows all filled with painted glass. It is of flint and stone; small but picturesque; and was restored, somewhat enlarged, and a tower and square pyramidal shingled spire and glazed porch on the south-west added in 1853. Beyond the church, towards Whetstone, is a range of Almshouses, founded in 1612 by Lawrence Campe for 12 aged persons, who besides lodging, received two shillings a week each. It is the original building, but repaired and stucco-fronted in 1843.

Hampstead Parish church of St John (1560)
Hampstead, Middlesex, famous for its Heath, pure air and fine scenery, lies North by West of London on the outer edge of the metropolitan boundary; the four mile circle cuts the south slope of the hill on which the village is built and the four and a half milestone is at the commencement of the Heath, north of the town. The North London and Hampstead Junction railway has stations at the Lower Heath, and in the Finchley Road; the Midland railway at Finchley Road, West End and Child's Hill. The Heath has been a great pleasure resort, Hampstead abounds in inns: those about the Heath are the Castle, better known as Jack Straw's Castle, on the summit, an excellent house; the Vale of Health Hotel, in the hollow to the east; the Spaniards, by the lane leading to Highgate; and the Bull and Bush, North End. Till about 1598, Hampstead was a chapelry of Hendon parish. It is now, not merely a separate parish but the mother church of eight ecclesiastical districts, which have been wholly or in part formed out of it. The manor of Hampstead was given by Ethelred to the Abbey of Westminster, and remained the property till surrendered, with the rest of the abbey estates, to Henry VIII, in 1539. It formed part of the endowment of he new bishopric of Westminster, Dec 1540.
Hampstead stands on one of the highest hills round London. The town occupies its southern slopes, the Heath its summit, which is 443 feet above the sea-level. The upper part of the hill is of sand, mostly coarse, yellow, ferruginous, and unfossiliferous, but occasionally fine and light coloured, and in places interstratified with seams of light-coloured sandy clay or loam; a capping, in fact, of the Bagshot Sand series, about 80 ft thick which overlies a stratum of dark sandy clay, 50 ft thick, and in the lower part rich in fossils, that may be seen between the Lower Heath and Parliament Hill, where it is worked for brick-making. Beneath this, and cropping out on all sides towards the base of the hill, is the London Clay being impervious to water, the sand resting upon it forms a water-bearing stratum, and hence from the sides of the hill, at nearly the same level, issue the copious springs for which Hampstead has long been noted.
The church St John, is little more than a century old. the former church rambling, mean and ruinous, was pulled down in 1745, and the present building erected in its stead, from the designs of Mr H Flitcroft, but has been somewhat altered since. It was consecrated by Bishop Gilbert, of Llandaf, in 1747. the church is a plain brick building of ordinary 18th century style, but has the peculiarity of having the tower at the east end, no chancel, and short transept-like projections at the west, so that to looks like a church turned around. the tower has a quaint, picturesque character; though it is less elaborate than that originally designed, and the spire, of copper, is much lower. However it may be architecturally, the tower is a pleasing feature in the landscape, and from the elevated site it is conspicuous over a wide area. The interior of the church is of no interest, and the monuments on the walls are not to persons of much account.
Other churches: All Souls, London Road
St Andrew's Mission Church, Allitsen Rd
St Cuthbert, Fordwych Road
St Mary, Priory Road
St Mary the Virgin, Primsore Hill Rd
St Paul, Avenue Road
St Stephen the Martyr, Avenue Road

Hendon Parish church of St Mary, Church End (1653)
Hendon lies to the right of the Uxbridge Road,, seven miles northwest from London, three miles northwest of Hampstead. The inn, Greyhound by the church is a good house. Hendon station on the Midland railway is one mile north by east of the village. On leaving the station turn left and keep along the lane and through Burrows, leaving the pond on the right. The name Handone recorded in the Doomsday Book is derived by Norden, who "lived at Hendon during the greater part of King James's reign," from Highendune, "which signifieth Highwood, of the plenty of wood there growing on the hills." Hendon parish is seven miles long from north to south and from two to four miles wide. At its southern end the little river Brent, which has most of its head-streams in this parish, forms a large lake. Northwards the ground rises into moderate elevations, by Hendon village, Mill Hill and Highwood Hill. The country is exceedingly pleasant, green, abundantly wooded, the trees large and various; undulating, the hills affording very pleasant views, the valleys many pretty field paths and quiet shady lanes with hedges full of hawthorns, wild roses, honeysuckles, and brambles, and bluebells and arums everywhere by the waysides. The village is of some extent, and used to be rural and somewhat picturesque, but it has been so much improved of late years that it hardly differs from any other suburban or railway village. At the Doomsday Survey, and for an uncertain time before, the manor belonged to the Abbey of Westminster. Alienated in the reign of Stephen, it was restored to the abbey in 1312, and continued to be held by it till the Dissolution, when it was transferred to the newly created see of Westminster. Bishop Thirlby surrendered it in 1550 to Edward VI, who the same year "bestowed" it upon Sir Edward Herbert, as a favour at the time of his baptism, whereof King Edward was a witness. It was held by his descendants till 1757, when it was sold by Henry Arthur, Earl of Powis to the celebrated David Garrick.
Hendon church, St Mary, occupies a commanding site on the summit of the hill immediately north of the village. It is however a poor building and not in the best condition. It consists of a nave with aisles and clerestorey, chancel with aisles, and a tower at the west end. The body of the church is covered in plaster; the tower, small and poor, is of stone, uncovered except by ivy, but much weather-worn, and the battlements patched with red brick. The church is perpendicular, the windows mostly modern and poor, and those of the north clerestory have carpenters' frames. The interior is encumbered with deep galleries. The nave arches are borne on octagonal piers, probably of an earlier church. The chancel has been restored and decorated, and the east window filled with painted glass. The front is Norman, large and square, with an arcade of interesting arches on each of the four sides. The churchyard is of exceptional beauty, carefully planted, and well kept. the view from the north side of the old churchyard is very fine, embracing Harrow, Edgware, Stanmore and the Buckingham hills, Elstree, and distant Hertford heights, Highwood and Mill Hill. Something was lost of the beauty of the views, though the panoramic range was extended, when the grove of trees which skirted the brow of the hill was cut down to form a new burial ground.
Other churches: Christ Church, Breet Street    
Highgate Parish church of St Michael
A suburban village on the Great North Road, four and half miles from King's Cross by the great North railway, Highgate and Edgware line. Inns include Gate House, opposite the Grammar School; Wrestlers and Red Lion at the north end of the town; Fox and Crown, West Hill. Highgate occupies the summit of Hampstead's "sister hill," at the junction of the old two main northern roads, - from Oxford Street by way of Tottenham Court Road, and Islington through Holloway, - the summit being reached by the steep acclivities of Highgate Rise and Highgate Hill. The two roads meet in the High Street, where begins the North Town, a broad highway lined with private dwellings, shops, and inns, and having at the commencement the Grammar School on one side, the Gate House tavern on the other, and terminating in the slope of North Hill. The Green, bordered by groves of ancient elms, seems to have been the centre of the origin village, and the place where the villages met for rural games and holidays diversions. Thus the Whitsun Morris-dancers, in "Jack Drum's Entertainment," 1601 sing - "Let us be seene on Hygate Green, To dance for the honour of Holloway".
Highgate church, St Michael, stands some little distance south of the old chapel and the school, facing the entrance to the Grove. It is of white brick and stone, well-built, spacious, and lofty; comprises nave and aisles with clerestorey, butresses, crocketed pinnacles, and pierced parapet, chancel with large five-light east window, and at the west end a tower and octagonal stone spire. the stye is an impure perpendicular, it was consecrated in November 1832. The architect was Mr Lewis Vulliamy. Occupying nearly the highest point of Highgate Hill, its tall spire is conspicuous for miles around. The interior of the church is convenient, and well-kept, but in no way remarkable,

Holborn
Parish church of St Andrew (1558-1952)

Holborn is the smallest of the metropolitan boroughs, 405 acres, and the probable meaning of its name is the brook or bourne in the hollow. It comprises four parishes - St Giles' in the Field, see below; St George's, Bloomsbury; St George the Martyr, Queen Square; St Peter's, Saffron Hill; and the part of St Andrew's, Holborn, which is outside the City. It is bounded on the north by St Pancras, north-east and east by Finsbury, south-east by the City of London, south by Westminster, and west by Westminster, St Marylebone and St Pancras.
In Woburn Square is a little early Gothic revival church by Vulliamy (1833) containing a reredos designed by Burne-Jones in memory of Christina Rossetti, who lived nearby and in Gordon Square is the great Catholic Apostolic church by Brandon (1854).
St George the Martyr is a parish carved out of St Andrew's Holborn in 1723, the church in Queen's Square having been built in 1706 as a Chapel of Ease. It was so completely transformed in 867 that it is of little interest.
In the parish of St Andrew's Holborn was Furnival's Inn. Bedford Row is a street of fine old 18th century houses mostly occupied by the legal profession. The name, like that of Harpur Street, is due to a local benefactor, Sir William Harpur of Bedford who was Lord Mayor in 1561. Theobalds Road was part of the route to the favourite country resort of James I, Theobalds in Hertfordshire.
Ely Place commemorates a London palace of the Bishops of Ely, the earliest record are from 1286 when the bishop was John de Kirkby. When he died in 1290, he bequesthed a messuage and adjoining tenements to his successor. The will refers to the property as in the parish of St Andrew near Holborn. Kirkby's successor was Wm du Luda, who held the see between 1290 and 1298. It is believed that the chapel on the ground left by Kirkby during this time. The garden at Ely was noted for it's strawberrys, as recorded in Shakespeare's Richard III, where the Duke of Gloster says, "My Lord of Ely when I was last in Holborn, I saw good strawberries in your garden there, I do beseech you send for some of them." The gardens on the bishop sloped down to the River Fleet; and probably Plum Tree Court, Saffron Hill and Vine Street derive there name from them. Saffron Hill - once a liberty or area free from jurisdiction of the county sheriffs and magistrates, and the haunt of undesirable characters. It is the background for much of Oliver Twist.
The thoroughfare known as Ely place is unique in several respects. The gate is closed nightly at 10, and up to 1939 from that hour until 6am one of the three watchmen, on duty in turn, paraded round the cul-de-sac calling out the hours. At one time the weather was also announced. Next to the chapel is St Audrey's House. St Audrey was a popular name for St Etheldreda, who died of a tumour to in the throat caused by the early love of necklaces. At the fair at Ely, necklaces and lace were sold as St Audrey's. From this was derived the word tawdry, "You promised ma a tawdry-lace and a pair of sweet gloves." Winter's Tale.
To the west of Ely Place and Hatton Garden, taking its name from Sir Christopher Hatton who acquired the property from the Bishops of Ely. The annual rent for the gate-house was a red rose and 10 loads of hay plus £ 10 for the grounds including an orchard. Between 1620 and 1624 the palace was occupied by the Spanish Embassy and in 1643 Ely Place was made a prison by the Long Parliament, and the Serjeant-at-Arms was appointed keeper, with a charge that the chapel and the gardens receive no injury. Nearby in a somewhat dilapidated condition, a charity school, designed by Wren in 1696 [ The school building is there and in fine condition - author's comment. ].
The Mitre Tavern, at the Holborn end of Hatton garden, is quite modern, but on its façade is a mitre that bears the date 1546 and may have been on a much earlier tavern, or on some part of the Bishop of Ely's palace. Inside is an old cherry tree which it is claimed dates back to Elizabeth's reign. Two favoured statements must be denied. There is no underground passage to St Etheldreda's Chapel, and the tavern is not under the jurisdiction of the Cambridge or Ely justices. Holborn Viaduct was constructed between 1863 and 1869, which demolition of house starting in 1863. It was formally opened by Queen Victoria on 6th November 1869, the same day as the new Blackfriars Bridge. It is 1,400 feet long and 80 feet wide. The bridge crosses the bed of the River Fleet
Churches in Holborn:
Ely Chapel
Holy Trinity, Gray's Inn Road
Holy Trinity, Kingsway
St George, Bloomsbury Way
St George the Martyr, Queen Square
St Giles Mission Church, Sardinia Street
St John the Evangelist, Red Lion Square
St Peter, Saffron Hill

Hornsey Parish church of St Mary
A once rural, now suburban village: but still retaining the some of its primitive features, two miles north east of Highgate, four miles from King's Cross by the Great Northern railway. Inns, the Three Compasses, by the church; great Northern Tavern, opposite the church; the Railway Hotel, by the station. In the 13th century the name was written Haringee Haringhee, or Haringy; in the E. reign of Elizabeth, Harnsey and Hornsey were used. Hornsey village is long, irregular, and scattered. By the church the street is broad, bordered by elms, and still rural; and the rural character is preserved in the lanes that run off from it, as it is in the extension of the main street towards Muswell Hill. Along the lanes are many god old houses half-hidden behind tall elms, so-called villas are rising on every side. the New River meanders in devious fashion through the valley. The fields, though fast diminishing, as still pleasant, and the heights on either hand afford wide prospects: the new Alexandra Palace is of course conspicuous from all of them.
The church, St Mary, looks better a distance than close at hand. The old ivy-covered tower is attractive object from the neighbouring heights, and picturesque when near; but the body of the church is brick, and Gothic of the year 1833. The old church was pulled down in 1832. The tower, the only part left of the old church is of reddish sandstone, square, embattled, with a newel turret at the north-west angle, and has on it the arms of Savage (1497-1500), and Warham (1500-4), successively bishops of London, thus fixing the date of its erection. In the tower is a peal of six bells. The interior of the church is kept in excellent order. Several of the windows have painted glass.
Other churches: Christ Church, Crouch End
St Andrew's Mission Chapel, Shepherds Hill
St James, Muswell Hill
St Matthew, Muswell Hill
St Paul, Burgoyne Road, Harringay
St Peter, Wightman Road

Islington Parish church of St Mary (1557)
Referred to in the Doomsday Book both as Isendone and Iseldone, which is conjectured to mean 'the lower town or fort,' to distinguish it from Tolentone, the old name for the district on higher ground to the north, now part of the area known as Highbury. The English Place Name Society, however, gives different derivations: Giseldine =Gisla's Hill; Tollandene =Tolla's Hill. Islington is bounded on the north by Hornsey, on the west by St Pancras, east by Stoke Newington and Hackney and, south by Shoreditch and Finsbury.
Of the well-known inns, the Angel was never in Islington but in the neighbouring parish of Clerkenwell; The White Conduit House nearby has extensive pleasure gardens and a cricket ground where Thomas Lord (of Lord's) was groundsman, and the Rosemary Branch, near the Shoreditch boundary, adjoining the famous archery butts of Islington and Finsbury Common.
In the Essex Road was the Islington Cattle market (1835) which occupied 15 acres. The existing Caledonian or Metropolitan Cattle Market was erected 1855 at a cost of UK ৺?,000, and originally covered 75 acres.
Through Islington flows the New River. This is a statue of Sir Hugh Myddleton on Islington Green (1862), who constructed a 'river' or channel, about 40 miles long which brought water from the springs of Chadwell and Amwell near Ware in Hertfordshire to a reservoir in the Parish of Clerkenwell. The Regent's Canal has a 900 foot tunnel between White Conduit House and Colebrook Row.
The parish church is dedicated to St Mary the Virgin. The 'old church' was the successor of one on the same site, and was over 300 years old when demolished in 1751; the present church was erected by Launcelot Dowbiggin, and was opened by Jas. Colebrook, lord of the manor in 1754. The parish registered date from 1557. In the 19th century a number of new churches were built in Islington, of which a few are worthy of mention. St Mary, Holloway (1815); St John, Holloway Road (1826); St Paul, Balls Pond Road (1828) and Holy Trinity, Cloudesley Square (1826)

 
Other churches: All Saints, Battle Bridge Road
All Saints, Tytherton Road, Tufnell Park
Christ Church, Highbury Grove
Emmanuel, Hornsey Road
Holy Trinity, Cloudesley Square
New Norfolk Street Chapel
North London Welsh Church Mission, Hornsey Road
Rosemary Mission, Shepperton Road
St Andrew, Thornhill Square
St Andrew, Whitehall Park
St Anne, Poole's Park, Holloway
St Augustine, Highbury New Park
St Barnabas, Hornsey Road
St Bartholomew, Shepperton Road
St Clement, Westbourne Road, Barnsbury
St David, Westbourne Road, Barnsbury
St George, Crayford Road, Tufnell Park
St James, Victoria Road, Holloway
St James the Apostle, Prebend Street
St John, Highbury Park
St John's Mission, Copenhagen Street
St John the Baptist, Cleveland Road
St John the Evangelist, Pemberton Gardens
St Jude, Mildway Grove
St Luke, Penn Road, West Holloway
St Mark, Tollington Park
St Mary, Ashley Road, Hornsey Rise
St Mary Magdalen, Holloway Road
St Matthew, Essex Road
St Matthew's Mission Church, Rupert Road
St Matthias, Caledonian Road
St Michael, Bingfield Street
St Padarn's Welsh Church, Salterton Road
St Paul, Essex Road, Canonbury
St Paul, Kingsdown Road, Upper Holloway
St Peter, Dartmouth Park Hill
St Peter, Devonia Road
St Peter's Iron Church, Highgate Hill
St Philip the Evangelist, Arlington Square
St Saviour, Aberdeen Park, Highbury
St Saviour, Hanley Road
St Stephen, Canonbury Road
St Stephen, Elthorne Road
St Stephen's Mission Road,
St Thomas, Hemingford Road
St Thomas, St Thomas's Road

Monken Hadley Parish church of St Mary the Virgin (1668)
Hadley or Monken Hadley adjoins the town of Barnet on the north; one mile north of High Barnet station, on the Edgware and High Barnet Line. According to Lysons and others it owes its name to "its elevated situation, Headleagh signifying in the Saxon a high place." It lies between the Great North Road and the western of the forest tract known as Enfiled Chase, and the ley in its designation probably points to it as a clearing in the high forest land. The manor belonged to the Mandevilles till the middle of the 12th century, when it was alienated by Geoffrey de Maneville to the Abbey of Walden - hence the designation Monken (or Monk's) Hadley. After the suppression of religious houses, Hadley manor was given, in 1540, to Thomas Lord Audley, but in 1544 again surrendered it to the king. In 1557 Queen Mary granted it to Sir Thomas Pope: in 1574 it was alienated to William Kympton. It was sold to him in 1582, and remained for a century in the hands of the Hayes family. It has many times changed owners, and is now held by H Hyde Esq.
Hadley Church, St Mary, at the entrance of Hadley Common, is a large cruciform building, perpendicular in style. It is a good example of the style; but the church was restored, and to a considerable extent rebuilt in 1848 to 1850, under the direction of Mr G E Street, when several windows were inserted, the mouldings and tracery renewed, and the walls refaced. It is of black flint and Bath stone, except the tower, in which the red ironstone is largely used, the quoins being Bath stone.. It comprises nave with aisles, chancel, transcepts, west tower and south porch, added in 1852 as a memorial to the late rector. The tower has the date of its erection, 1494, over the west door; but the great west window and those in the belfry are recent insertions. At the south-west angle is a newell turret carried well above the parapet. From it projects the ancient iron beacon, one of the last of its kind left: it was erected by the monks to guide wayfarers crossing Enfield Chase by night, and travellers to or from St Albans, or the north. Both the tower and chancel are partially covered with luxuriant ivy, the stems of which are of great thickness. The interior of the church is handsome but in the main new. The chancel and transept arches are of good form, and proportions; the nave, of four bays, opening into the tower, has depressed arches resting upon octagonal piers, and the elaborate hammer-beam roof. Large hagioscopes enable the alter to be seen from the transcepts. The windows are filled with painted glass: that of the east window by Warrington, the others by Wailes of Newcastle. The chancel has carved oak stalls; the seats in the body of the church are of oak with carved standards. The handsome carved pulpit and font are recent. In the chancel is a piscina, and there is one in each transept.

St Marylebone Parish church of St Marylebone, (1668)
Other churches: All Saints, Finchley Road, St John's Wood
All Saints, Margaret Street
All Souls, Langham Place
Brunswwick Chapel, Upper Berkeley Street
Christ Church, Cosway Street
Christ Episcopal Chape, Maida Vale
Emmanuel, Maida Vale
Good Shepherd Mission Church, Paddington Street
Holy Trinity, Marylebone Road
Oxford Chapel, Vere Street
Quebec Chapel, Bryanstone Street
St Andrew, Wells Street
St Barnabas, Bell Street
St Cyprian, Clarence Gate
St John, St John's Wood
St Luke, Nutford Place
St Mark, Marylebone Road
St Matthew, Maida Vale
St Paul, Great Portland Street
St Paul, Portman Square
St Paul, Rossmore Road, Lisson Grove
St Peter, Vere Street
St Thomas, Portman Square

St Giles Parish church of St Giles in the Fields (1561)

St Lukes Parish church of St Lukes,Old Street (1660)   See also Finsbury

St Pancras Parish church of St Pancras (1660)
Other churches: All Saints, Camden Town
All Saints, Gordon Street
Christ Church, Charlton Street, Somers Town
Fitzroy Chapel, London Street
Percy Chapel, Charlotte Street
St Andrew, Haverstock Hill
St Bartholomew, Gray's Inn Road
St James, Hampstead Road
St John the Baptist, Highgate Road, Kentish Town
St John the Evangelist, Charlotte Street
St Jude, Gray's Inn Road
St mark, Prince Albert Road, Regents Park
St Martin, Vicars Road, Kentish Town
St Mary Magdalen, Munster Square, Osnaburgh Street
St Mary the Virgin, Eversholt Street, Somers Town
St Matthew, Oakley Square
St Michael, South Grove, Highgate
St Pancras Old Church, Pancras Road
St Peter, Regent Square
St Saviour, Maple Street
St Stephen, Camden Street
St Thomas, Agar Town
Somerstown Chapel

South Mimms Parish church of St Giles (1558)
So called to distinguish it from North Mimms, Hertfordshire, on the St albans road, fourteen miles from London. Inns: White Hart; Black Horse. South Mimms is a pretty village standing on high ground, 421 feet, about the junction of several roads. Wrotham Park, the seat of the Earl of Strafford, at the south end of the parish, between Hatfield and St Albans roads, immediately beyond the obelisk at Monken Hadley, was build from the designs of Ware, for Admiral Byng, about 1754 - only three or four years after his execution. It has since been the chief seat of the Byng family. The name was given to it from the ancient seat of the family, Wrotham of Kent. The park is of 250 acres, is fairly timbered. There is a public footpath across it from Ganwick Corner. Dyrham Park, a half mile from Wrotham Park, and nearly two miles south-west of South Mimms church, derived its name from the Derham family, its owners in the early part of the 14th century, when by marriage it was transferred to Thomas Frowyk, in whose descendants it continued till the end of the 15th century. It afterwards belonged to the Laceys and Austens; was then sold to the Earl and Countess of Albemarle; in 1773 was sold to Christopher Bethell, and in 1798 to John Trotter, Esq., the founder of the Soho Bazaar. The mansion is large and good; the park is 170 acres, pleasant and well timbered. The entrance gate by the St Albans Road - a tall central arch between Tuscan columns - is the triumphal arch erected in London by General Monk for the entry of Charles II in 1660.
The church, St Giles, is near the north end of the village, close to the White Hart Inn. It is interesting and picturesque building of flint and stone, the south side covered with stucco, and consists of nave and northern aisle, chancel, west tower and porch at south-west. The tower, tall and massive, with buttresses and good angle turret, and partly covered with ivy, is much above average of village church towers, In it is a peal of six bells. The church is Early Perpendicular with flowering tracery, except the north aisle, which is of brick, rebuilt in 1526. The interior is pleasing, but without any marked feature, except that the east end of the north aisle is shut off by a carved oak parclose, and forms the Frowyk Chantry, founded and endowed in 1448 by Thomas Frowyk and his wife Elizabeth. The chancel was newly paved and decorated at the restoration of the church in 1868. Some of the pews are old and well carved. In the windows of the north aisle are some fragments of painted glass of the date and no doubt part of the original decoration of the rebuilt aisle.
Churches in South Mimms: Christ Church, Barnet    
Tottenham Parish church of All Hallows (1558)
Tottenham, Toteham, lies between Stamford Hill and Edmonton, on the Ware and Hertford road. It has a number of railway stations; Tottenham and Park Lane on the Cambridge branch line of the Great Eastern; Seven Sister, Bruce Grove and White Hart Lane on the Enfield branch line. Wood Green on the Great North railway and South Tottenham on the Midland railway. The population of the parish in 1871 was 22,809 and includes the ecclesiastical districts of Holy Trinity, Tottenham Green, St Paul's Park Lane, St Ann's Hanger Lane and St Michael's Wood Green. The River Lea forms its eastern boundary, the other side of the river being Essex. The western boundary is given by the New River.
Ffrom the original Tottenham manor three manors are created each bearing the name of its founder. Bruce Manor was assigned to Robert de Brus and finally to Robert the Bruce of Scottish history. When Robert became King of Scotland, Edward I at once seized his English Estates. Bruce Castle now occupies the site of the manor. The manor of Baliol was seized by Edward I when John Baliol, King of Scotland, renounced feudal homage. In 1337 it was given to William Danbeney by Edward III and became known as Danbeney's Manor. Hastings manor descended to Lawrence de Hastings who became the heir to the earldom of Pembroke and the manor was given the name Pembroke. The manors were again reunited when John Gedeney, alderman of London became the owner.
One of the famous sites in the parish of Tottenham is The Seven Sisters which were 7 elm tree growing in a circle by the roadside of Page Green, planted, according to tradition, by seven sisters when the were about to separate. Inside the circle was an old walnut tree.
All Hallows church stands about half a mile west of the high road to the rear of Bruch Castle. the church was given by David King of Scotland to the canons of the church of the Holy Trinity in London which was founded by his sister Queen Matilda. The existing church is not the original one and has been much patched and altered at various times. The north aisle which is of brick was build in 1816 while the tower is of flint and stone appear much older.The porch is of brick and chancery, vestry and organ chamber are of bright red brick. The Holy Trinity church on the north side of Tottenham green was erected around 1828 and is a chapel like brick building with buttresses and pinnacles. The church of St Paul, Park Lane is similarly a poor example of modern architecture. St Anns church, Hanger Lane (hanger meaning a meadow or enclosure by a wood) is a much better example. St Michael's Wood Green was erected in 1865 with the chancel, tower and spire were added in 1874.
Other churches: Christ Church, West Green
Good Shepherd, Berwick Road
Holy Trinity, High Cross
St Andrew's Mission,
St Ann, Stamford Hill
St Gabriel, Bounds Green
St John, Brook Road
St John the Divine, Varty Road
St Mark, Noel Park, Wood Green
St Michael, Wood Green
St Patrick's Mission,
St Peter, Page Green

Totteridge Parish church of St Andrews (1570)
A village at the south-east angle of the county, between Whetstone and Highwood Hill, Middlesex. One mile west of he Great North Road, where is totteridge and Whetstone station of the Great Northern railway. The only inn is the Orange Tree. The name is derived probably from the Anglo Saxon root Tot, a height, an elevation and ridge; although other opinions suggest that Tot may indicated a place of worship. Totteridge occupies the summit, 437 feet, of the line of high land which stretches westward from Whetstone to Highwood Hill, 402 feet, and thence north-west to Elstree. The country is varied and agreeable, richly wooded, and affords extensive views, and Totteridge is as yet little defaced by the builder. About the Green are some good old houses, standing in the midst of fine grounds. the church is picturesque placed on their highest point of the hill. From an early period Totteridge was united with Hatfield, and held by the Bishop of Ely, till surrendered to Queen Elizabeth for an annuity of £ 1,500, to be paid out of the Exchequer to the Bishops of that see. The living of Totteridge is still held with that of Hatfield, forming together one of the two richest livings in the country; it is in the gift of the Marquis of Salisbury. Elizabeth gave manor in 1590 to John Cage, from whom it passed to Peacock, then to Sir Paul Whichcote, who sold it in 1720 to Sir James Brydges, Duke of Chandos. By Henry, second Duke of Chandos, it was sold to Sir William Lee, Lord Chief Justice of the King's Bench.
The church, St Andrew, on the right of the road from Whetstone, is a plain brick building erected in 1790, but enlarged in 1869 by addition of an apsidal chancel and transept, organ chamber and vestry, and rendered more accordant with current ecclesiastical taste. Painted windows were at the same time inserted as a memorial to Lord Cottenham

City
Churches in the City of London:
(Guildhall library holdings)
All Hallows, Barking by the Tower
All Hallows, Bread Street (1538-1892)
All Hallows, Honey Lane (1538-1892)
All Hallows, Lombard Street (1549-1937)
All Hallows, London Wall (1559-1927)
All Hallows, Staining (1642-1961)
All Hallows the Great (1666-1954)
All Hallows the Less (1558-1954)
All Saints, Skinner Street
Bridewell Chapel
Christchurch Greyfriars, Newgate Street (1547-1940)
Fleet Prison/ Rules of the Fleet
Guildhall Chapel
Holy Sepulchre without Newgate,
Holy Trinity, Gough Square
Holy Trinity, Minories (1563-1945)
Holy Trinity the Less (1547-1876)
Lamb's Chapel, Monkwell Street (1618-1753)
Mercer's Hall Chapel
Old Red hand & Mitre Chapel
St Alban, Wood Street (1662-1974)
St Alphage, London Wall (1613-1940)
St Andrew by the Wardrobe (1558-1940)
St Andrew, Holborn (1558-1952)
St Andrew Hubbard (1538-1846)
St Andrew, Undershaft (1558-1901)
St Ann, Blackfriars (1556-1940)
St Ann & At Agnes (1640-1938)
St Antholin, Budge Row (1538-1940)
St Augustine, Watling Street (1559-1940)
St Bartholomew by the Exchange (1558-1924)
St Bartholomew, Moor Lane
St Bartholomew the Great (1616-1934)
St Bartholomew the Less
St Benet Fink (1538-1905)
St Benet Gracechurch (1558-1937)
St Benet, Paul's Wharf (1916-1964)
St Benet Sherehog (1670-1946)
St Bololph without Aldersgate (1638-1953)
St Bololph without Aldgate (1558-1945)
St Bololph , Billingsgate (1685-1891)
St Bololph without Bishopsgate (1558-1850)
St Bride, Fleet Street (1587-1961)
St Christopher le Stocks (155-1924)
St Clement, Eastcheap (1539-1940)
St Dionis Blackchurch (1538-1937)
St Dunstan in the East (1558-1948)
St Dunstan in the West ()1558-1970
St Edmund the King & Martyr,
St Ethelburger, Bishopsgate (1671-1932)
St Ewin
St Faith under St Paul (1645-1940)
St Gabriel, Fenchurch Street (1571-1952)
St George, Botolph Lane (1546-1891)
St Giles without Cripplegate (1561-1974)
St Gregory by St Pauls (1559-1953)
St Helen, Bishopsgate (1575-1870)
St James, Duke's Place (1664-1947)
St James Garlickhythe (1535-1868)
St James the Wall
St John the Baptist, Walbrooke (1670-1940)
St John the Evangelist, Friday Street (1653-1892)
St John Zachary (1693-1938)
St Katherine Coleman (1559-1961)
St Katherine Cree (1663-1947)
St Lawrence Jewry (1538-1951)
St Lawrence Pountney (1538-1975)
St Leonard, East Cheap (1538-1937)
St Leonard, Foster Lane (1670-1940)
St Magnus the Martyr (1557-1853)
St Margaret, Lothbury (1558-1924)
St Margaret Moses (1558-1850)
St Margaret, New Fish Street (1670-1853)
St Margaret Patterns (1558-1952)
St Martin, Ludgate (1538-1953)
St Martin Orgar (1624-1940)
St Martin Outwich (1670-1873)
St Martin Pomeroy (1539-1924)
St Marting Vintry (1664-1954)
St Mary Abchurch (1558-1975)
St Mary, Adermanbury (1538-1974)
St Mary, Aldermary (1558-1940)
St Mary at Hill (1558-1850)
St Mary Axe
St Mary Bothaw (1536-1944)
St Mary Colechurch (1558-1924)
St Mary le Bow (1538-1837)
St Mary Magdalen, Milk Street (1558-1951)
St Mary Magdalen, Old Fish Street (1539-1953)
St Mary Mounthaw (1568-1964)
St Mary Somerset (1557-1964)
St Mary, Staining (1673-1934)
St Mary, Woolchurch Haw (1558-1953)
St Mary Woolnoth (1538-1953)
St Matthew, Friday Street (1538-1882)
St Michael Bassishaw (1538-1951)
St Michael, Cornhill (1546-1853)
St Michael, Crooked Lane (1538-1890)
St Michael le Querne (1754-1884)
St Michael Paternoster Royal (1558-1954)
St Michael Queenhithe (15=653-1876)
St Michael, Wood Street (1559-1934)
St Mildred, Bread Street (1754-1853)
St Mildred Poultry (1538-1924)
St Nicholas Acons (1539-1875)
St Nicholas Cole Abbey (1538-1964)
St Nicholas Olave (1670-1964)
St Nicolas Shambles
St Olave, Hart Street (1704-1961)
St Olave Jewry (1538-1924)
St Olave, Silver Street (1561-1934)
St Pancras, Soper Lane (1538-1889)
St Paul's Cathedral (1697-1812)
St Peter, Cornhill (1538-1951)
St Peter le Poer (1561-1905)
St Peter, Paul's Wharf (1607-1964)
St Peter, Westcheap (1538-1876)
St Sepulchre, Holborn (1662-1901)
St Stephen, Coleman Street (1538-1952)
St Stephen, Walbrook (1557-1946)
St Swithin, London Stone (1614-1944)
St Thomas Apostle (1558-1940)
St Thomas in the Liberty of the Rolls
St Vedast, Foster Lane (1754-1853)
Temple Church
Whitefriars Precinct